Tulum and Sian Ka’an Nature Reserve

After my recent journey to Mérida, I had the opportunity to visit Tulum for few days. Tulum is easily reached from Mérida by a four hour bus journey which also stops at Chichen Itza. Don’t expect too exciting a bus ride. The land on the Yucatán peninsula is flat, flat, flat.

I had been told by a friend of a friend that Tulum was a “bit of a dump”. That seems over harsh to me. It is true the town itself has no real merits. The principal, possibly sole, business here is tourism, as it is on nearly all the Maya Riviera. One advantage of this for the traveller is that Tulum is full of all sorts of restaurants catering for the tourist trade, a number of which have been set up by foreigners.

I ate well – a tasty huge burrito stuffed with chicken, rice and beans – at a place just off the main street called Salsita (whose owners are from California) and also in Charlie’s. The naming of a Mexican restaurant as ‘Charlie’s’ does not immediately inspire confidence but the food here was really good. As the Rough Guide says the first impression of Charlie’s is an uninspiring “tourist magnet” but the traditional Mexican food here is really well-prepared and tasty.

The main claim to fame of Tulum is its Mayan ruins, located about 2kms north east of the town center. The ruins themselves are interesting, though not particularly impressive, but what is really spectacular is the setting. These ruins are the only Mayan ruins located on the coast. If you take a bathing costume, it is possible to climb down from the cliff to a lovely small beach and swim. The sea here, like all the way along the coast, is that amazing Caribbean turquoise closer to the shore and deeper blue further out.

About 200 meters from the beach, where you can see the waves breaking, is a coral reef which stretches along the coast here and which is the second longest coral reef in the world after Queensland’s Great Barrier reef.  As I was still suffering from bronchitis I did not go snorkelling. There were plenty of people offering snorkelling tours on the beaches south of the ruins. Prices started at 250 pesos for a two hour tour but seemed negotiable.

For the two nights I was in Tullum, I stayed at the Posada Luna del Sur. This is a very comfortable, small hotel which has won all sorts of awards. It has had new owners for about 9 months and they seem to be continuing in the tradition of the previous owners. When I stayed, just before the high season, it cost 70USD per night for a double room, including a good breakfast. Of course it is possible to find cheaper hotels, but for the quality available, it represents really good value for money.

Additionally, the people who run it are super-helpful. Whilst I was there, Gareth, one of the three new owners, spent a good while telling me about local restaurants, lent me his computer for short periods when my Mac would not pick up the wi-fi signal in the hotel, and organised a kayak trip and a taxi to the Sian Ka’an nature reserve.

The highlight of my time in Tulum was definitely the kayak trip I did in the Sian Ka’an nature reserve. The entrance to the Sian Ka’an reserva de la biosfera is about 10 kms south of Tulum. I was surprised to see that all this stretch of the coast had been developed. Thankfully not in huge Cancun-style hotels but more eco-chic style hotels whose main claim to being ecological seemed to be the use of solar panels for electricity.

The Sian Ka’an reserve is important because it represents 528,147 hectares of protected land, where any kind of development is highly restricted.  CESiak (Centro Ecológico Sian Ka’an), an excellent environmental organization, has its Center in the reserve, on a narrow strip between the coast and an inland lagoon. Their website says that the Center:

“serves as a model for sustainable development in sensitive tropical ecosystems” ……and “operates using ecologically responsible technologies, including systems for wetland waste management, rainwater collection, and solar and wind energy generation.”

I took taxi from my hotel to CESiak’s center in the reserve. I had been told the fare would be 100 pesos but the driver was expecting 200 which he said was the going rate. In the end we settled for 150. I had originally planned to go on a boat trip in the reserve with CESiak, but that was full, so I opted for a kayak trip at 50USD instead. That turned out to be an excellent choice.

When I arrived at 2.30pm, it turned out I was the only client. My guide, Antonio, suggested we wait until 3.30pm when it was cooler, so I wondered around the center and along the beach for a while. It really was a lovely spot. If I wanted to spend time relatively isolated and immersed in wild nature on a tropical coastal ecosystem (not so easy in this part of Mexico), this is where I would come. The Center has accommodation available and also a good restaurant which I sampled after my kayak trip.

Antonio led me down about 200 meters to where the kayaks are on the edge of the laguna. We then spent three hours of mostly sheer bliss paddling around the large inland lagoon. Sian Ka’an in Mayan means door to the sky or place where the sky begins. After an hour or so of kayaking I really understood this. Because everywhere is so flat, and the lagoon so extensive, the water seems to merge with the vast sky.

At first, as we started paddling across the lagoon, I thought there was not much to see. Later Antonio explained that the laguna was actually teeming with life, but much of it was hidden. We made our way to islands of mangroves where, with quietness and patience it was possible to observe many different kinds of birds. I was also told there were crocodiles , which I had mixed feelings about. I wanted to see at least one but from a distance.

Antonio was an excellent guide. He was enthusiastic, knowledgeable and clearly loved kayaking on the laguna. Moreover, he seemed to know when to talk and tell me about the bird-life or the ecosystem of the laguna, and when to remain quiet.

Around 5.30pm the sun started to set. The light became golden and we had a wonderful view as the sun set behind the small mangrove islands. The last forty minutes or so were spent paddling back across the laguna as it got darker and darker and the waves become choppier. At times I thought I had lost sight of my guide but he always seemed to reappear in the increasing blackness. This small frisson of perceived risk gave an extra dimension to the trip. All in all it was a wonderful way to spend fifty dollars, and I would wholeheartedly recommend both the CESiaK Center and the kayak trip.

Memorable Meals in México 3: Mérida

When I first moved to Ciudad Guzmán, a little under five years ago, I rented an apartment just off a street, Calle Pascual Galindo Ceballos, in the center of the city. There was nothing particularly remarkable about this street. It was a typical street, running one way east to west for about five hundred meters and finishing in the corner of the main Plaza.

As I walked up and down the street, I started to notice the range of shops and activities that this street contained. It struck me that it would be possible to spend one’s whole life not needing to go beyond the limits of the street. There was a large Franciscan church, a Funeral Parlour, a dentist and at least three Doctors’ consulting rooms. There were small grocery stores on three of the corners. There was an excellent bakery, a handful of restaurants, and a cafe with a shiny Gaggia machine and superb home made cakes. Later someone started a bar in one of the old colonial houses on a street corner. There were two gyms. There was a shoe shop and an opticians. There was a shop selling all kinds of material for curtains where it was possible to buy sheets and towels. There were a number of shops specialising in electronic repairs as well as somewhere to cut keys and frame pictures. In short, it was a typical small town Mexican street.

When I was staying in Mérida recently, I had a similar experience. I was staying at the Hotel Trinidad , participating in the conference I wrote about in an earlier post. For two days, I had severe bronchitis and did not attend the conference. As I was not well, my movements were limited to the streets in the immediate vicinity of the hotel, located at number 464 Calle 62, close to the corner with Calle 55, and about 400 meters from the main plaza.

Fortunately, there were an abundance of good places to eat and cafes where I could sit for hours drinking tea, coffee and chocolate.

The best place I found to eat is an extraordinary little restaurant called el cangrejito (the little crab) at No 523 Calle 57. Even knowing the address, I walked past it the first time. It looks like a hole-in-the-wall and there is nothing outside to identify it as el cangrejito.

Inside there are two rooms decorated with photos of various luminaries who have eaten in el Cangrejito, including Pope Juan Pablo II – he is on the frame at the top right of the photo above as you look at it. The first room as you enter has a glass counter where the different options for tacos are displayed. I ate here three times and each time what was on offer differed, depending I guess on what was available in the market that day. Normally there were prawns, lobster, fish cooked in breadcrumbs, and a variety of white fish.

Never have I seen anyone make tacos so first. You explained what you wanted and then in a flurry of rapid hand movements the tacos appeared on a plate as the man serving put together the fish chosen with different salsas, guacamole, and other garnishings. What a treat for the taste buds! Eating six tacos here with a beer or refresco cost about 100 pesos (7USD).

I also tried the Marlin Azul on Calle 62, which, like el cangrejito, was recommended both in the Rough Guide and on David Sterling’s excellent site about his Yucatan cookery school, which includes reviews of many restaurants in Mérida. The ceviche here was good but I preferred el cangrejito.

Almost opposite the Marlin Azul is another good restaurant, el Trepiche. El Trepiche makes it to number 6 in Trip Adviser’s list of best Merida restauarants. I would not normally have ventured inside because I would have been put off tby the menu advertising pizzas outside but it was the only place I was told that would be open for tacos when I arrived late one Friday night. And the tacos were excellent. The next night I had lime soup which was also excellent. And the place is really good value for money. Who knows, maybe the pizas are great too, but the Yucatan cooking was fine.

I found two good cafes on Calle 62. They are both called El Hoyo. One, shown in the photo above, is open from around 9am until 6pm and serves great coffee. The other has the same name, is closer to Hotel Trinidad on the other side of the road, and specialises in teas. I had some of the best green tea here I have ever tasted. Both have internet access and are very pleasant places to sit.

Just around the corner from Hotel Trinidad in Calle 55, between Calles 60 and 62 is another small cafe, Called ki’ XOCOATL, also with internet access, specialising in chocolate. This is made with 100% organic Mexican cocoa with either milk or water and can be served hot or cold according to taste. They also have wonderful brownies.

Finally, La Chaya on the corner of Calle 62 and Calle 46, completes the roll-call of restaurants I visited around Hotel Trinidad. The restaurant specialises in traditional Yucatán cooking and is Number 1 on Trip Adviser’s list of best Merida restaurants. I went there at the suggestion of a friend because – like large adverts for pizza -  normally people dressed in local costumes (even making tortillas by hand and wearing anti-flu masks) is a warning-off sign for me. Chaya, also known as tree spinach, is a fast-growing shrub native to the Yucatán. It was used extensively by the Mayans. As well as using it for cooking in the restaurant, they make a lovely refreshing drink with the leaves. The food here was good, though more expensive than the other places I visited.

To conclude, I would like to give a ringing endorsement to the Hotel Trinidad. This is a decidedly idiosyncratic hotel, full of quirky artworks and eccentric touches like wooden parrots in huge cages and signs telling people not to feed the possum. I has always assumed a possum was a soft cuddly creature, like a koala bear without claws,  but in fact it looks like a large long tailed rat with huge ears.

As you can see from what I have written above, the hotel has a marvellous location close to the main plaza and within easy walking distance of these great cafes and restaurants. In attending the conference, I had the choice of staying at the Fiesta Americana, (an ugly, soulless monstrosity which could be anywhere in the world to give rein to my prejudices) at a specially negotiated conference rate of 100USD per night, and this hotel, with a spacious room, private bathroon, air-conditioning and continental breakfast for around 30USD per night. I did not regret my choice.

WILD 9 Congress in Mérida

My last entry on this blog about Eugenia Leon is dated 4th August 2009, over three months ago. Since then I wrote two more entries –  firstly about corruption and politics and then corruption and education – but removed those from the blog following the advise of a colleague at the university where I work.

Just before taking off the two posts about corruption, I had already decided to remove a previous post about a conflict over land on the Michoacán coast. My blog address was printed in a local paper in the area, together with translations of comments made by an American, which were being used as evidence of his meddling in the internal affairs of Mexico. Given the delicate, tense, potentially violent and complex nature of this situation, I decided to remove the post. I have to say I felt cowardly doing this. Interestingly, all my Mexican friends thought it was best to do so. A case of discretion being the better part of valour.

I then asked my colleague what she thought of the two posts about corruption and she advised me to remove them. Since then I have written nothing.

Coming to Mérida, however, to attend the 9th World Wilderness Congress has inspired me to get back onto the horse again. In this post I will write about the Congress and in another post(s) about some of the delights of Mérida.

The World Wilderness Congress (WWC), organised by the Wild Foundation, is held once every three or four years. It began in Africa in 1977, and this is the first time it is being held in Latin America.

The programme this year states that the WWC:

“Continues to work for a world in which a healthy and prosperous human society understands wilderness, and has an animated relationship with the complex biological, spiritual, cultural and economic benefits provided by wild nature”.

The first thing to say about this congress is that it is long! An initial event of three days from 6-8 November followed by another event of five days. I’m writing this on the second day of the second event. My impressions too are filtered through the bronchitis which I have been suffering from since I have arrived last Friday which maybe has made me somewhat jaded.

The congress has had a high profile this year. Mexican Presidente Felipe Calderon dropped in last Friday evening, and, Jim Prentice, the Canadian Minister for the environment gave a keynote speech. Dr Mario Molina, the Mexican Nobel prize winner for his work on chlorofluorocarbons in the atmosphere also gave a key note talk.

In addition, there was a strong corporate presence. Most of Saturday morning was given over to business presentations about work being done in their companies to address the environmental challenge. CEMEX, Coca Cola and Bimbo (a very large Mexican bakery company) were given platforms to show what they are doing.

CEMEX is actively involved in the creation of a wilderness area called El Carmen on the Mexico-Texas border. Coca Cola, through its Fundación Coca Cola is planting many trees throughout Mexico. Interestingly, it has also made a commitment to put back, every drop of water it uses to produce Coca Cola. It was not clear to me how they will do that. For example, the reforestation project is part of this. Bimbo has also created a civil society organization to be involved in reforestation projects.

There seem to me to be many contradictions in these huge companies giving their commitment to the conservation of wilderness. In an earlier post about Chiapas, I wrote how a Human Rights organization there was organizing the boycotting of Coca Cola products.

More fundamentally, however, I think questions need to be asked of these companies (Coca Cola and Bimbo) promoting themselves as, and winning awards for being, socially responsible businesses when it can be argued that their basic products do not promote healthy nutrition. Mexico is facing a health crisis due to an impending diabetes and obesity epidemic. I don’t think it is a coincidence that Mexico also has the highest rate per capita of consumption of Coca Cola in the world.

Jane Goodall with young people from 'Roots and Shoots'

The main thrust of the conference, though, was given over to conservation of wilderness areas, with a particular focus on the possible effects of climate change. There were some remarkable and inspiring speakers, notably Dr Jane Goodall who especially talked about the work she is doing with young people, which goes under the name of Roots and Shoots.

Thomas Lovejoy gave a detailed account of some of nature’s response to climate change. Seeing this kind of presentation, with its wealth of evidence, painstaking and wide-ranging studies, made me wonder how anyone could not take climate change seriously. The conference was full of scientists and environmental activists, with a deep commitment to the work they are doing.

There were however aspects of the conference that made me uneasy.

•    First from a learning point of view, the format was incredibly traditional. A series of key-note presentations for the first three days and even in the second week the workshop sessions in the afternoon seemed the modern equivalent of ‘chalk-and-talk’ – a sequence of powerpoint presentations. As Rob Hopkins commented in his recent Transition Town blog:

“For me the panels of speakers model is a bit past its sell by date at this stage, all the great gathered wisdom in the room, and we just all have to sit and listen to speakers all day.  However good they are, it always feels like a missed opportunity to network, share ideas, discuss and find out the amazing things people are up to.”

•    It seemed to me that very little conscious attention had been given to the need to create more space and opportunity for dialogue. Not easy with 1000 people, of course, but still possible. As always, people were networking like crazy in the coffee and lunch breaks, and renewing friendships and contact. But even a simple tool like a list of participants showing their organizational affiliations was not provided. I came to the conference hoping to meet more people in Mexico involved in environmental issues and it was not so easy to do this.

•    The building where the conference was held, the Siglo XXI conference center in Mérida is incredibly ugly. To me it is the embodiment of a certain kind of Mexican monumental authoritarian neo-brutalist architecture – almost as far away from wild nature as you could get!

•    The food was utterly conventional, over-priced, without taste, and generated vast quantities of plastic waste. What an opportunity missed to show-case the delights of Mexican food and maybe even find some small producers or local restaurants to show off what they could do. I appreciate this would be difficult but it seemed to me an incongruency in the organization of the event not at least to try and consider this aspect. For another perspective on how to green events, have a look at ecogatherings.

•    In a similar vein, the tour company selling tickets to visit all the amazing Mayan and other architectural sites in this part of Mexico was a conventional tour company. In a conference, extolling the virtues of eco-tourism, could it not have been possible to try and find some local eco-tourism companies? I don’t underestimate the difficulties of doing this. I’m sure agreements exist between the conference center and the other businesses that are allowed to operate there. But I had a sense, maybe wrong, that the organisers of the conference had not considered this.

•    Overall, all these points indicate to me a certain lack of imagination in the design of the conference. They help to reinforce a sense that it will be science (with its rational, materialistic underpinnings), closely followed by conventional economics, that would help get us out of the fix we are in. Everything is now being turned into a market. There was an afternoon session on the emerging markets in not just carbon credits, but also in biodiversity, fresh water and marine life. I understand the argument that it is important to value ecosystems and the services they provide, but I can’t help wondering that it is this kind of thinking and mindset that has created the problems we now face. 

On reflection, this last point seems a little glib. I think the subject of the role of science and market-based solutions to the ecological crisis is complex. For a good critical outline of market-based solutions see Naomi Klein’s very recent article in the English newspaper the Guardian.

Better to end with Einstein’s quote that:

“In times of crisis the imagination is more important than knowledge”